Kantha is a traditional folk embroidery originating from West Bengal in India and Bangladesh. It is also practised in the neighbouring states of Odisha and Bihar in India. Unlike many other prevalent craft forms that were commissioned by royalty or wealthy landlords, Kantha emerged from the creativity and resourcefulness of rural women, purely driven by a utilitarian perspective. The word 'kantha' is believed to be derived from the Sanskrit word 'kontha,' meaning rags. This reflects how rural Bengali women repurposed old fabrics into new, functional pieces by stitching them with decorative patterns,often for household use, as wedding gifts for their daughters, or as presents to mark the birth of a child. Interestingly, some Kantha pieces can take months or even a year to complete, while a few others are passed down through generations, with grandmothers, mothers, and daughters all contributing to the same fabric. This tradition ingrains cherished family memories, contemporary styles, and motifs from each generation into those delicate Kantha stitches, creating a timeless heirloom. Many of these exquisite Kantha works are collected by folk craft and textile curators and preserved as cultural heritage from West Bengal and Bangladesh in various museums both in India and abroad, such as the National Crafts Museum in New Delhi, the Calico Museum of Textiles in Ahmedabad, the Ashutosh Museum in Kolkata, and the Philadelphia Museum of Art in the USA, among others.
Originally, kantha was created as a quilted textile by stitching together multiple layers of worn-out fabrics like old sarees and dhotis—using threads pulled from the sarees' borders itself—to produce everyday domestic items such as lightweight quilts (known as lep in Bengali and sujani in Bihar), bedspreads, throws, floor mats, rumals, and soft wraps for newborns. Today, Kantha has evolved into a commercial industry, with artisans using fresh fabrics sourced from factories, along with production remnants, print overruns, and misprints, while threads are procured from local thread stores.
The core element and signature of Kantha embroidery is the straight running stitch, which is essential for defining outlines and adding details to the decorative patterns. Other stitches used in Kantha include satin stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch, cross stitch, darning stitch, and loop stitch, all of which enhance the embroidery and help create intricate designs. Kantha is also noted for its unique and distinctive puckered and wavy appearance across all its creations.
Kantha textiles are commonly crafted from cotton, silk, and muslin, depending on their intended use. These textiles are employed in a range of items, including clothing such as sarees, shawls, scarves, dupattas, and kurtas, as well as home linens like quilts, bedspreads, blankets, pillow covers, prayer mats, and rugs. Additionally, Kantha embroidery is also popular for crafting smaller accessories, such as book covers, bags, purses, and makeup cases, among other items.
Notably, Bengali Kantha designs are inspired by traditional floor art, or rangoli, drawn on entrance passages during festivals, while Sujani Kantha from Bihar reflects the folk wall paintings of Madhubani. It is also seen that Hindu households typically embroider religious and mythological themes, whereas Muslim households often feature Islamic and Persian geometric and floral motifs in their Kantha designs.
Nakshi Kantha is a type of large embroidered quilt, derived from the word 'naksha,' meaning artistic patterns. The design starts with an outline created using needle and thread, followed by intricate detailing. Typically, a fully bloomed lotus or Sun motif, symbolizing the universe, is embroidered at the center, with four matching motifs in the corners, such as the tree of life or mango leaf buta, etc. The remaining space is then adorned with detailed patterns and motifs, including stylized birds, animals, fish, foliage, palanquins, chariots, temples, shells, and scenes from daily life. Mythological themes, such as Radha-Krishna, Krishna's raas leela, Ram-Sita with Hanuman, and Goddess Lakshmi, are also commonly depicted.
Par Tola is a specialized form of Kantha that features intricate geometric patterns rooted in traditional Islamic art, which emphasizes geometry over depictions of life forms in accordance with Quranic teachings. The stitching for Par Tola is done from memory rather than following a pre-drawn pattern, showcasing the artisans' skill and precision. This form of Kantha is primarily used to create prayer mats and book covers for the Quran, often adorned with motifs such as paisley, stars, moon, Arabic calligraphy, and other floral and geometric shapes like zigzags and spirals.
There are several other types of Kantha as well, including Lik or Anarasi (Pineapple) Kantha, which originated in the Chapai Nawabganj and Jessore areas of northern Bangladesh; Lohori or Wave Kantha, popular in the Rajshahi region of Bangladesh; Carpet (or Cross-stitch) Kantha, introduced by the British; and Sujani Kantha from Bihar, known for its floral and vine motifs. Traditionally, wooden blocks were used to print outlines, but today, these blocks have largely been replaced by patterns drawn on tracing paper.
Kantha was shaped by Indian traditions as well as colonial influences and Portuguese interactions. In the 17th century, Portuguese patrons commissioned Kantha embroidered with silk threads for export to Europe. In the mid-20th century, more contemporary motifs began to emerge, featuring diverse designs such as sailors, sailing ships, and notable figures like Queen Victoria, Lenin, Shakespeare, Marilyn Monroe, and more.
Kantha, a traditional Indian embroidery craft, has garnered significant attention in both domestic and international fashion. Renowned Indian designers such as Tarun Tahiliani and Sabyasachi Mukherjee have extensively incorporated Kantha into their collections. While the craft's commercialization has led to a broader market appeal and economic opportunities for rural Bengali women, it has also perpetuated exploitation issues, including unfair wages and irregular payments. Despite efforts by NGOs and a growing fair trade movement, many artisans still face financial and social challenges. Kantha's global popularity, particularly in countries like the UK and Japan, has increased demand for ethically produced items, with more designers adhering to fair trade principles.
In 2008, West Bengal received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Nakshi Kantha, a traditional embroidered quilt known for its intricate and artistic stitching. Bangladesh, which had also sought the GI tag for Nakshi Kantha, was unable to secure it at that time due to the absence of a legal framework for such protections. However, following the enactment of the "Bangladesh Geographical Indication (Registration and Protection) Act, 2013," Bangladesh is now preparing to apply for the GI tag for Nakshi Kantha in the upcoming application cycle.
Image Credits: Embroidered Kantha woven by Bangladeshi artist Bama Sundari Dasya in 1891, displayed at Victoria Memorial Hall, Kolkata | CC BY-SA 4.0
